Picking window has narrowed in Germany

The German Wine Institute has reported that across all 13 regions, the hot summer caused almost all varieties to ripen rapidly, and at roughly the same time. This harvest is telling us something.

The calendar has moved

Historically, Germany is a cool-climate wine region where grapes grow at the – so far - northern limits of viticulture (…). Grapes are routinely reaching harvest readiness considerably earlier than they once did. The calendar has moved, and not just for harvest. In the Mosel, where Riesling vines climb impossibly steep slopes and slate is in the ground and on the rooftops, Weingut Nik Weis reports that the entire growing season was significantly ahead, from early budbreak through to early ripening.

Farther south, in considerably warmer Baden, Weingut Heitlinger began harvest on August 19th, 11 days ahead of its previous record. Winemaker Patrick Jacklin hopes that this new record won’t be broken any time soon, but at least he is satisfied with the quality of the grapes. (…)

Mediterranean climate in Pfalz Region

Over in the Pfalz - with its near-Mediterranean climate where almond trees grow next to vineyards - Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan began hand-harvesting Chardonnay for its ‘Pierre’ Sekt on August 12th - another 7–10 days earlier than recent vintages that themselves were considered early. (…)

But more than just being early, the harvest time has also been compressed. With many varieties ripening simultaneously, the picking window has narrowed. In addition to monitoring sugar levels, the German Wine Institute has identified acidity as an increasingly important factor in picking decisions this year, particularly for preserving freshness in white wines. Jacklin points out. (…).

Vineyard management has to keep up

Accelerated and compressed ripening show how the vines are responding to warmer and drier conditions. Now vineyard management has to keep up. At both Heitlinger and Bassermann-Jordan, vineyard management places considerable emphasis on soil health and resilience.

Generally speaking, biodynamically farmed vineyards are more resilient, especially in dry and hot years like this one. Healthy, living soils, biodiversity and resilient vines are therefore becoming increasingly important.

Adaptation doesn’t stop at the winery

Bassermann-Jordan Windery fosters diverse cover crops including legumes, brassicas, and grasses, alternating with fallow periods to regenerate the soil and ensure it is fit for the future.

Adapting to nature is inherent to winemaking - that’s a given. But in a changing climate, adaptation doesn’t stop at the winery door. Eberle explains what’s different in today’s world.

Dry ice to cool the must and prevent oxidation

For decades, October was traditionally the main harvest month. Now, harvest usually takes place in August or September, which inevitably means higher temperatures. To prevent higher must temperatures, hand harvesting is often limited to the morning hours, while grapes for entry-level wines may be machine-harvested at night or in the early morning. When necessary, we can use dry ice to cool the must further and prevent oxidation”, says Operations Manager Achim Eberle.

Early harvest affect entire operations

For centuries, German winegrowers worked in a climate where getting grapes fully ripe could itself be a challenge. The challenge facing today’s growers is increasingly a reversal of that reality. Ripeness can arrive quickly, picking decisions can come down to a matter of days, and the Weinlese - an activity firmly associated with autumn in German wine culture - can now begin in the heat of summer.

Author: Matt Tinney