The best way to get to know the wonderful wine landscapes of Stuttgart is to explore them on the wine hiking trails. One of the most beautiful of them begins in Obertürkheim am Neckar and leads over the valley to Uhlbach. From there it goes steeply upwards, through the vineyards to Rotenberg, past breathtaking lookouts and interesting sights to Untertürkheim and from there along the Neckar back to Obertürkheim. (Distance 12 kms)
The wine hiking trail begins at the train station in Obertürkheim, with a view of the steep vineyards and the towering church, which is located directly at the foot of the vineyards. The well-signposted path leads through the old town of Obertürkheim, over Uhlbacher Straße, past the inn “Wirt am Berg”, from which Friedrich Schiller derived the name Württemberg: “Wirtenberg” is written as “Wirt am Berg”. Here could be – although we have barely started - the first rest stop with typical Swabian cuisine. A few meters further on is the wine tavern "Zum Sonnenbesen" (zaiss.com) and a few meters further on the right is the old Obertürkheimer Kelter (wine press), today a wine shop for the Untertürkheim wine manufacturer. In August, for the “Kirbe”, the rustic wine press, which is also a testimony to Swabian carpentry, is decorated as a ballroom.
After the Kelter, the path turns left and ends in front of the church which leads to the wine trail. After the church we have the first view of the Neckar valley. The following steep service road leads to a Panorama path that heads right, through vineyards and orchards, towards Uhlbach. Halfway along we can see the stately chapel of Rotenberg.
From Obertürkheim via Uhlbach and Rotenberg to Untertürkheim
At the end of the Panorama path, it goes comfortably down to Uhlbach, the easternmost district of Stuttgart. Uhlbach has been characterized by viticulture for centuries, wines from Götzenberg are known far beyond the city limits. After classic grape varieties such as Riesling and Trollinger, less well-known ones such as Heroldrebe and more recently Chardonnay are also cultivated. The Uhlbach wine press of the "Collegiums Wirtemberg", which we pass, is just as much a testimony to wine culture as the wine-growing museum, which can be visited from March 1 to the end of November (collegium-wirtemberg.de). There is a lot of interesting things to see here. Exhibits from two thousand years of viticulture bring history to life. In addition, wines from the surrounding villages can be tasted in the museum room. If it’s now time to replenish, the Oxen wine bar is a good choice. In summer, a 100-year-old chestnut tree offers expansive shade in an inviting outdoor garden. There are cozy places for a delicious snack with accompanying wine (ochsen-online.de). Another popular alternative is the Besenwirtschaft "Zum Dreimädelhaus" (besenwirtschaft-stuttgart.de).
Now we head uphill, over Götzenbergstrasse, towards the Rotenberg chapel which can be seen at the highest point overlooking the surrounds. This was built by King Wilhelm I of Württemberg for his beloved Queen Catherine and is one of the most beautiful vantage points in Stuttgart. In good weather, the view extends all the way to the Swabian Jura.
After this wonderful panoramic view, the path leads downhill again, past the "Rotenberger Weingärtle". From the terrace of the dining room there is another scenic view down to Uhlbach (Rotenberger-weingaertle.de). Over the street "Im Graben", the path continues to Württemberger Straße and below the village, through the vineyards with a view of Fellbacher Kappelberg, towards the valley. Halfway up on the left, in the middle of the vineyards, is the Rotenberg wine press of the "Collegiums Wirtemberg". A detour for a wine tasting is highly recommended. In order to try a range of wines, the vintners are offering wine tastings on their terrace during their sales period, where wines of different quality levels can be purchased by glass. This is a great way to sample and taste a selection of wonderful local wines.
Fortified by the tasting and the views, the path then leads half way up the hill, makes a detour around the Mönchberg and then continues parallel to the Neckar, with a wonderful view of the Stuttgart television tower, back to the Obertürkheim church and from there back down to the starting point, the train station.
Note: The wine hiking trail can of course also be done in two stages. From Uhlbach, take the bus line 61 directly back to Obertürkheimer Bahnhof.
Stylized glass, with stylized red grapes in front.
Challenging climbs require stamina. But there are always easier alternative routes. Near the towns, the route mainly leads through vineyards. Therefore little shade, but always great views over the Neckar and Stuttgart. Fully paved paths.
Parking available at Obertürkheim or Untertürkheim train stations.